Inspiring stories.
Every review here is more than just an attempt at evaluation—it is an attempt to capture the fleeting: atmosphere, drama, aromas.
I don’t just evaluate, I interpret. And I honor the special—not the perfect.
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Off to Belgium (again): Service à 6 Mains at In de Wulf
Well, Belgium and the Netherlands have emerged to a culinary hotspot not only due to Peter Goossens, Sergio Herman and Jonnie Boer ranking among the best chefs in the world. Interestingly, there are many young, very talented chefs who have developed a modern yet distinct culinary style, especially…
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Hidden Gems (II): Landgasthof zur Linde*
In a kind of re-booting after some serious sensoral overflow (due to massive high-end dining) I step-by-step acquainted myself to fine dining again by simple but nevertheless very good meals. By chance I recently ended around Tübingen and Reutlingen about 30 minutes south of Stuttgart. Wondering where to…
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Hidden Gems (I): Landgasthof Adler*
£48 for a five course Michelin star menu – Andy Hayler has shown us how this works in last Sunday’s Telegraph issue. But, you have to travel quite a bit back and forth in the UK (637 miles to be precise). Fuel bill added on top this might…
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Aqua – Play it Again, Sven!
After all the recent praises you might wonder whether I would ever again report about bad meals (remember King Kamehameha and Can Fabes!). Contrary to professional restaurant testers I can choose the restaurants I visit and most of the time I choose wisely, especially in the last months…
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Perfect Christian Bau?
After a couple of meals last year at Christian Bau’s Schloss Berg I followed Trine’s example of taking a break to see how the cuisine develops over some time. But, sooner that I thought the idea came up to show very good friends of mine real three star…
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Margaux – One of A Kind
Most chefs at high-end restaurants are obsessed in a very positive way – either with execution, product quality, presentation or creativity. Michael Hoffmann of Margaux in Berlin is all of that but maybe to an even greater extent. In the last couple of years he built up an…
